How to train half crimp reddit.
27 votes, 32 comments.
How to train half crimp reddit. Validates a lot of the "very strict half crimp" stuff that a lot of us on here recommend. I'd also say drop the added weight and move to smaller edges than a 25mm if you can. May 10, 2022 ยท Many climbers have been injured from over-using the full-crimp and were forced to re-train themselves to rely more on the half-crimp and open grips. The biggest benefit to training half crimp is that it is the best grip to use on some hold types. The general consensus seems to be (and also what for example Lattice says): almost always avoid full crimp while hangboarding unless you're a very advanced climber and train it with a purpose for a short period of time half crimp To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I mostly train half crimp because I feel like it activates my forearm muscles the best, and it also feels the most natural to me. is debated and contested by a lot of training programs and experts/coaches AFAIK. just how it goes. But I have found that there is a difference between "just hanging" and actively trying to "pull" with my forearm muscles. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. smaller edges put much more torque on the pulleys I would just like to chime in that Always use open crimp or switch to a bigger edge. To gain the strength: Train strict half crimps on fingerboard. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Something to take into account though in addition to the added stress on your fingers, half or full crimping a hold also gets you more pumped which can really suck on longer routes. just keep training half crimp. trueGetting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. But after some advice from a coach and wanting to break into higher grades, I got into seriously training the strict half crimp (index, middle, and ring at 90 degrees, pinky is in a drag). I've gone back 27 votes, 32 comments. Additionally, holds at gyms have evolved and we now encounter a broader range of shapes and sizes, most of which don’t really work with a full-crimp. . If your climbing goals never require you to use a half crimp then I see no reason to train it. Over the past few years I focused on fixing my index and pinky to very strict half crimp and it has helped a lot like he corroborates. Constantly touted as the gold standard, is it worth it to force myself to learn to half crimp? (via hangboarding and being conscious of half crimping when climbing) Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. For very small holds you have to half crimp them to get more friction 28. If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. Haven't tried specific pinky lifts, but maybe I'll give that a go. To train the technique: Full crimp jugs and mini-jugs for fun when warming up, or climbing easy routes. 5mm a pad is pretty normal I'd say for the middle finger. I still prefer before session finger strength training as opposed to after. 25 is a full pad when the 28. Good stuff. 5 is bent in half crimp and definitely a full pad on the other fingers. wuheefnlvipvgbsdkwvvrvhjjqeuuvoiniqyxdepjlajl