How to rappel with atc reddit. I’d go with two large HMS/pear shaped ‘biners.

How to rappel with atc reddit. I’d go with two large HMS/pear shaped ‘biners.

How to rappel with atc reddit. I hope this post isn't too redundant. An ATC or figure 8 with quality ‘biners and a friction hitch backup is cheaper and smoother. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. On rappel thread the single rope as normal, but then do a biner block with a clove on the spine of a biner and set it against the rap ring (or an 8 and locker clipped in if you're paranoid). Consider a figure 8 style device with some sort of way to control friction and lock off on rappel. Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some . ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. So yes, 4 biners is for redundancy and additional strength. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. I will climb with a grigri for lead belaying and an ATC guide or gigi/ovo plate for belaying the follower. I’d go with two large HMS/pear shaped ‘biners. From what I understand, the only method to do this is the sketchy leg-wrap-around. Changeover that way should take only a few seconds and you'll be able to run laps efficiently. Get a couple small lightweight locking biners. Ask yourself what you’d do if you dropped your only stick without a rappel rope handy? Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. remove my ATC, set up a rap point (sacrificial beaner or quicklink - must be metal and not cordelette/webbing since the rope will rub through it unlike normal rappels) as close to the prussik on the rope as possible set my rap setup single strand on the break side of the rope, as close to the rap point as possible, backup hitch mandatory Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? My local climbing course taught the first Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. So here’s my question: what if I tie off an overhand on a bite below my ATC, and then clip myself into that via an extra QuickDraw or something? Then I could go hands free. Also, it introduces slightly more friction to the set up. It's easy to do a single rope rappel and get your rope down without any added slings or fuss. ATS, CRITR etc. However, I am looking to get The argument from their side is that if the backup is below the rappel device, it can get caught up in the ATC (in this case) and not catch you at all. Pass your rope through like you normally would, with both strands going to the ground. When you reach the top, weight the backup line on one of the knots, replace the duck with an ATC/grigri and rap back down. Black diamond ‘biners have locking mechanisms that are sub-par in sandy conditions IMO, avoid them. However, with the prussik above, if you extend the knot/backup system too far above the ATC you won't be able to reach the knot to slide it down the rope or it could get caught on a lip. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. All biners involved are having weight and force applied at angles and locations that they were never intended to face, nor were certified for. sqexcf gpq vwpf occph jnwnctng voklpj ptjaoma ctp qszgffd saztrk