Lattice hangboard routine reddit. It's likely the hangboard I used partially explains this difference, my skin kinda gets trapped on the rounded edge and gives me loads of friction. While I’m sure my tendons are getting stronger, I also think a significant portion of the gains are mental - realizing I actually can hold those crimps without falling off or breaking a tendon definitely helps when projecting harder climbs. Right now, i would like to mix things up and try a different structure. Instead of simply getting as much mileage on real rock as possible, they train with a hangboard workout and then climb even harder. 3-5 days per week, no more than 2 days in a row (better to have a rest day). to/3U0sEGZ ^This is an affiliate link and helps me grow my channel. Most "Beginner" hangboard programs start at 5. I took a Lattice assessment for fun in October 2023, and was able to hang 133. This routine was the gateway from me being a v4 gym climber to a v6 gym climber and going from not being able to do v0s outdoors to starting to send v3 outdoor. Looked in the Bouldering 101 which i liked, but didn't fit my need, Lattice got a bit pricey with €170 (love ya Lattice, got the triple rung, lifting ping, protable hangboard, micros etc), Climb-Strong is not practicable and doesn't have much for Bouldering and what not. Based on some quick youtube research (emil abrahamsson, stefano ghisolfi), it seems that no hang numbers tend to be higher than hangboard numbers. Hope this helps. I was fairly consistent to begin with, but 10 days after starting, I just did it once per day, and I also missed one day, and this was mostly due to other commitments, and not being able to fit two sessions into each day. Being strong just means you get to suck on slightly higher grades, but won't make you a better climber. Lattice training, they have a great home workout series that incorporates no hang, low intensity, but high volume hangboarding, as an alternative to “rest” between sets of other things. I'm not planning on going back to the gym anytime soon, but am still climbing every weekend outside, and I want to see if anyone has recommendations for developed training plans? Has anyone done the Home Lattice training The answer really depends on your own recovery time and intensity of workout. intervals, this one is pretty good and tough. This was my first taste of structured training and properly working on my weakness. So I was recently browsing Google trying to find answers to these two questions that I had. I have been through several iterations of homemade boards and in my experience unless you have the equipment to do a good job you will be unsatisfied with the final product and end up not using it. I experienced this over the past month, actually, where for about three weeks I could only find time to climb a bit in the gym. I've been climbing for 4 years now and use to just go into the gym to project and saw consistent results. this means I can't climb for 3 months so I decided to get a hangboard to help maintain myself during the offseason. These are my observations and potential causes. . Did you keep in contact with lattice regarding injuries etc, did they tone down exercises throughout? Lower the general workload to keep you trucking along with better recovery a bit more consistently? Do you feel noticeably stronger/better on the wall? re the point about poor movement patterns - that is one of my largest reservations about the commercialised online coaching Nothing helped the morning swelling much. The value of this training tool, matched with its ve Apr 22, 2020 · Since many of us are here trapped at our homes, without access to a climbing gym or our crags, I'm sharing with you some routines that can be done on hangboards that will make you suffer, cry, and hate this devil's invention. I've never had a finger injury and, if anything, it made me more prepared for loading my fingers on actual climbs and more aware of how much I could crank. Anecdotally I nearly always come off a rest week feeling stronger and climbing The width of the hangboard strip it´s also meaningful: 35mm wide its the same as using a normal pull up bar. The tension simple board is pretty much what you are looking for. I also have seen gains (although the routines are quite different). Want to see what you guys are doing, how long you've been doing it for, what you're trying to get out of it. But the main way I see people get injured using the hangboard is: adding it to the mix without reducing their overall volume of finger stimulus and climbing from the baseline they had before adding hanging. Aug 21, 2023 · The hangboard is without a doubt one of the best and most specific training tools available to climbers. I still don't enjoy rest weeks due to a fear of getting weaker during them; however tracking progress on board benchmarks and hangboard routines has helped to see that this isn't true. The routine is to add 1-2 days per week where you train "no-hangs" on a hangboard. 5kg (132%). And I just completed my first cycle of training with lattice. His workouts are so short and simple yet his progress is surprising, especially considering he climbs a decent amount it sounds like. To preclude that silliness: If you're starting out, look up "density hangs", start with big holds, and hangboard no more than once a week for a while before progressing to any more frequent hangboard routines. 'Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years', Emil following up on his previous video No background on your climbing level, history, daily/weekly/yearly routine/schedule, goals, discipline (s) within climbing, age, access to gym/rock, etc, etc, etc There is literally NO "most efficient hangboard routine. Jan 14, 2021 · So with my local gym closed because of covid and I started the lattice at home training series on YouTube to keep myself in shape. Nov 10, 2022 · They’re just components for building your hangboard routine and the best climbers are like experienced chefs—they know their ingredients extremely well and they know exactly how they relate to the outcome they’re hoping for. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I have pretty big hands and find the super-rounded edges to be downright pleasant to hang on, even when my skin is thrashed. Just finished building my first hangboard, took about 10 hours. This is exactly what is commonly quoted around here: if you want to get better at something, do it more. 11 (out of 12) of 7:3 in less than 35mm from 1 to 3 sets, or 1 - 3 set x 11 (12) reps 7:3 in 20mm - 30mm, for example: but this shouldn´t feel similar to I'm about the same level as you (outdoor V5) and I recently started training on the 2000 after giving away my 1000 to someone who needed a hangboard for the quarantine. Looks like a good outline, now break it down even further and get more specific with the workouts. There is an extreme wealth of information of how to do this (see Dave Macleod, Eva Lopez, Will Anglin's Hangboarding: A Way, Lattice Training). Whats your current Hangboard routine? Looking to improve my routine, right now just using the beasmaker 2000 app. We get asked a lot of questions about beginning fingerboard routines, when we think it's appropriate to start and what anyone should be looking out for when they first start to use a fingerboard. Keep moving and don't hang on jugs 4x4s and 4x4 lock offs (3-5 seconds each hold) good old fashioned endurance training Feb 9, 2020 · So you're trying to progress in your climbing and you've hit a wall and want to get stronger. 10 Minute Daily Hangboard Routine (FOLLOW ALONG) Emil Abrahamsson 279K subscribers Subscribe May 10, 2022 · 1. Very curious how they correlate. Jun 10, 2018 · I found this vlog to be pretty interesting, it's a Newb - gain vlog on the hangboard. My bodyweight is 70 kg and i could hang with additional 22. While those focus primarily on finger strength, this also builds pinch strength – an essential component of your climbing-specific training. Find out how. I did the 12 week boulder plan. 12, there are very few jugs unless the route is super roofy or long. I think this setup is fine especially if you are using added weight but its hard to tell the depth/scale of the holds in this picture. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Ever board with weird and interesting holds are things you'd be better off just climbing to work with. The jug would only come in handy to practice resting on (ie 10 sec on hangboard Hi! TLDR: want to diy a hangboard - does it matter if I hang from a mono/pocket on the fingerboard or from a big wide hold, if they are the same depth? I want to start hangboarding as I can’t climb regularly for the coming months, and was thinking about Emil’s routine to begin with, since my fingers are a bit tweaky. I change back to routine 1 Week 5: i just did a +9 lb routine 1 yet and woke up with literally zero finger swelling today. In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. Body and grade stats: 22M, 1,88m, 70kg, around 12 bf% judging by pictures, highest grade outdoor is 7A, Moonboard 2016 is 6C+ Weighted pullup: +35kg for 1. I don' think you should be training at your max when you are starting to hangboard. hangboarding weights - what are your weighted numbers? Do they correlate with each other? Please also include climbing level and bodyweight. If such a thing existed we could just stop answering all questions about hangboard/training. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. While in the gym, is it possible to have a hangboard routine which could be incorporated into the warmup (to maximize climbing time), but still targets prehab / building strength? What should my hangboard routine look like? I am a v5 climber that doesn't have access to a gym during the summer. Therefor, I've tried to make summaries for the most popular hangboard protocols, in an attempt to make it more digestible for climbers less familiar with them. 10a struggle bus. Being more Specific will help you stay on track and objectively see gains/improvements . Since many of us are here trapped at our homes, without access to a climbing gym or our crags, I'm sharing with you some routines that can be done on hangboards that will make you suffer, cry, and hate this devil's invention. I do 5 week training cycles, which contain 4 weeks of training then 1 rest week. Is this true for you? Thanks in advance! 3 points on this My hangboard routine is the same as yours except I only do one set. 11+ or V5 ish, NOT 5. First, what are some benchmarks in hangboarding that are fairly good indicators of strength in comparison to climbers of a certain level? Second, what kind of weight can pro climbers (8b+/V14 and up) hang and on what edge sizes? I couldn't find a single thing on either of these besides the list of I have just finished the 30 day hangboard routine. I read my log book, and noticed that this two week shit show started when i changed to routine 2 to skimp on warming up. I found this vlog to be pretty interesting, it's a Newb - gain vlog on the hangboard. Aug 22, 2023 · I had been climbing less than a year when I started hangboarding as a Lattice client. The difference between Neil and Lattice I found was that Neil has a ‘less is more’ philosophy and coming from lattice it didn’t feel like enough training. With this result lattice tells me i m a 6b climber. While in the gym, is it possible to have a hangboard routine which could be incorporated into the warmup (to maximize climbing time), but still targets prehab / building strength? THE hangboard routine you should know! 👉In our latest YouTube video we have coach @ollietorr here to show us a really simple hangboarding session that every rock climber should know. What are people's results with no -hang devices like the tension block. A no-hang is where your feet are planted, but you still pull hard on an edge as though you wanted to get off the ground. I’ve found that I can hang on 10 mm pretty easily but anything less seems to be way more about friction than strength. I firmly believe max hangs are not always the best choice for most people especially newer to intermediate climbers, yet they're recommended the most. I'm quite new to climbing, so I should've maybe asked you people first about which holds are useful on a hangboard. Given your numbers though, it's probably better for you to still just climb rather than doing specific finger strength work. Thinking about trying out the Lattice home plan, does anyone have any experience with it? If so, is it worth it? Whilst doing a lot of research on hangboarding and hangboard protocols, I've found it can get kind of overwhelming. I am aware about the Lattice hangboard which tries to eliminate all those differences by using this standardized edge, which is a great idea. Also I would not recommend making your own board unless you have access to proper woodworking tools. If it gets too easy, add weight. Rest, repeat. Maybe I can’t hangboard 6 days a week, but I can hangboard 3-4 days a week consistently, and increase the load. The sessions take a lot of time though because the rest periods are really long. Often on climbs around 5. Next time i guess Hangboard I used: https://alnk. Find your hangboard protocol that works for you and your goals, define your “limit” bouldering sessions as well as “easy stuff”. Recently I’ve noticed in my climbing that I tend to struggle with tiny holds, which is probably because I usually hangboard 20 mm edges with added weight with a few different grips. gg/bwf LeanGains is a specific program based on Martin Berkhan's methodology of lifting heavy weights reverse pyramid style, focusing on protein as the main macro-nutrient, and intermittent fasting (IF). I do 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, a total of 5 reps. Supercharged collagen. Apr 24, 2020 · This paragraph was a pretty big wake-up call about training and what was possible. I'd suggest downloading the crimpd app from lattice, its free, and looking over their hangboard workouts. To my genuine surprise, when I finally returned to the hangboard, I easily matched my previous working weight. Right now I'm doing 2 variations of pulling, pushing, core and hangboard. There's no reason why you can't follow a hangboard routine using the 20mm on the pinch block, it would just take more time since it's one handed. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. It's the The second is, for this kind of thing, what would the workout look like? Is what the article mentions good (10 second hang, 2-3 min rest x 3-5) or are the usual hangboard routines for beginners good (10 second hang, 5 second rest)? For reference, I mostly boulder indoors and sport climb outdoors. The purpose of a hangboard is to track measurable improvement over time using a consistent workout routine. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. I am currently doing the required training 3 times a week. The Hangboarding Training Protocol My training protocol was simple. 8% of my bodyweight. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. A single day was rough Jan 2, 2023 · Learn more about hangboard training as the most effective way to strengthen your grip and build resilience in your fingers. It works great for me, it's certainly more "strength training style" than 7/53- longer rests between sets allow for higher quality hangs. These are the guidelines I've used for finger training as I've gathered from this sub, Beastmaking by Ned Feehally, and as many basic hangboard protocols (Lattice, Eva Lopez, Emil Abrahammson, etc. 5 reps; +20kg for 6 reps Hangboard: 20mm, 8sec, +28kg So the finger strength is obviously pretty helpful as I am able to get an idea where I'm at for my grade, which is bang average, so here I'm thinking that starting Hangboarding at all I did the Lattice Lite metrics panel recently, using their 20mm edge board and found my max hangs to be surprisingly low—my stats came back saying I was “very weak” for my V5/V6 grade. No hang vs. My goal was to see how much I could progress with strength training before I'd reach a plateau. Goldilocks problem). Aug 17, 2021 · Please note: that this is all in the context of a properly laid out hangboarding routine, with climbing volume/load adjusted. Haven't used my hangboard in a while, and I'm thinking of incorporating a weekly session of repeaters with increased load on tree edges (something like 9 series total, not sure if it's worth more than that). Please note: that this is all in the context of a properly laid out hangboarding routine, with climbing volume/load adjusted. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. Training is one of the great progressions for the new generation of climbers who frequent climbing gyms. Aerobic Does anyone have any recommendations on what kind of hangboard routine I should use? Should I do max hangs instead? Switch to jugs? (I'm not sure if I could complete these sets on jugs either) Should I just be content doing fewer reps/sets than usually recommended during repeaters? I rest about 2-3 minutes and get on the hangboard (lattice or beastmaker), and if my fingers are feeling iffy or a little over-used, I tend toward a larger edge (about 25-30mm). Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for Crimp Strength This compact block from Lattice is a little different from some of the other models on our list. I’ve started doing light finger rolls everyday along with Emil Abrahamson’s sub-max hangboard routine. Start your fitness journey with one of the recommended routines in our wiki! Join our Discord Server! Discord: https://discord. And even my core routine consists of like 8-9 different movements, whereas before I'd probably only pick 1-2 exercises. 1 minute on, one minute rest, repeat for 10 minutes. Is there a certain grip I should be using to maximize friction on these tiny holds? More To specify a bit more, we're mainly saying hangboard is not a good idea now because you can climb and get better finger work doing climbs than using hangboard. Its mainly focused on half crimp/open handed repeaters but its a good place to start for a longstanding protocol. e. But I still saw some big gains. So I Nov 21, 2022 · Lattice Training’s Guide to Better Hangboarding: Part 2 These three hangboarding exercises work strength, endurance, and injury prevention, and can be adapted for climbers of all levels. The concept behind this approach is to isolate and strengthen the finger flexors and extensors while minimizing the strain on the pulleys and tendons. Beginner Hangboard Warm-up Routine: Goldilocks problem 🧸🥣 What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. Hangboard 1 is the best of the bunch if you're looking at doing a proper hangboard program. Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground I do the Lattice max hang protocol in the Crimpd app. Maybe I am just stupid, but how is it possible to make a INSTRUCTIONAL video of something so simple as a hangboard protocol and NOT explain it properly :p Also interesting that Lattice comes with this video at this time, after all the hypertrophy, max hangs etc discussions here lately :) What do you guys think? A while ago, I finished a series of three consecutive hangboard finger strength training cycles. So what is the best way to spend an hour or so on a hangboard? Kinda strange. So with my local gym closed because of covid and I started the lattice at home training series on YouTube to keep myself in shape. I want to build myself a hangboard for this purpose, and wonder if The Lattice Triple Rung's 20mm edge is the industry benchmark edge for testing whether you’re strong or weak for your climbing grade. What you think about lattice fingertest? So i did today the lattice finger test (for free on their page), which is basically hanging for 7 sec on a 20mm edge (used the beastmaker) with max weight. I had been climbing less than a year when I started hangboarding as a Lattice client. Thanks Interesting stuff. Big Takeaways: Drop hangboard intensity slightly and accumulate more volume. specifically with minimal gear (pullup bar, hangboard, and body weight stuff). Hangboard 2 is ok if you're going to use it to warm up at the crag or the boulders. TRX, bodyweight pushups, and core circuits felt easy, but clearly worked. This left more energy for all types of climbing work. I was wondering if anyone has any exercises or a routine they do daily to aid recovery, prevent injury, keep their body buttery or even build strength. I would also like to train on my hangboard once a week but unfortunately between being a key worker, raising/training my puppy, actually climbing and other life stuff I have extremely limited free time. It would increase your strength, it's not too different to a hangboard. r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. I used to only work on 2 supplemental things at a time (like my last cycle before Lattice I did deadlifts and hangboard). One max hang workout every 2–3weeks alongside some climbing is still enough to maintain. Emil's Video, the inspiration: • Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day Fo Rest, repeat. Since I have been in a strength cycle for around two months, is it best to now train my endurance with repeaters or should I continue increasing weight until I can do 15mm? Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. You haven't told us which routine you would like to follow. The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. I would definitely second the 7:3 repeaters, look on the Crimpd app from Lattice for some ideas (I use the 70% workout for power endurance). Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. Anyway I got a lattice hangboard training plan and they took a really good look at my metrics, as well as my goals, and came up with a plan specific for me. ) and have found good success by taking it slow with the progress and being consistent. Do you fully replace using the hangboard (for max hangs) ? Does it translate well to real rock climbing? I train to perform better in real rock. " It just doesn't exit. I definitely don't think the 1 minute dead hang on jugs is worth your while. I thought I'd offer a routine that I've seen work for a few beginner climbers. In March/April I started to notice a plateau and knew I needed to make a change in what I was doing. I wanted to start a discussion since we often only mention amount of weight hanged as a function of edge depth when it seems like this is not the full model. But recent changes means my hangboard is now outdoors and very condition dependent. The 20mm edge always was a clear goal for me since it gets referenced often (Videos by geek climber, Lattice test) and this feels like a huge success. I don't train for the sake of training. Huge difference in endurance as well. In that case your aim is to be able to do al the repetitions except the last one. If your hang board workout fits the model of the Anderson Brother's Rock Climber's Training Manual then your session really is 20-30 minutes of easy climbing into 45-90 minutes of hangboarding. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Jan 26, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a methodology that focuses on training finger strength without actually hanging from a hangboard. Basically a hangboard routine on a systems wall. These were my I like to do max hangs half crimp when training. For instance, if you're bad at say crimp climbs why do hangboard when you can just structure your climbing session to work on say 3-4 specific crimp climb boulders. For reference, I’ve been doing a consistent hangboard routine for 6 months now, and I’ve done less than 50 workouts in that time. Simplify your antagonist work. The second is, for this kind of thing, what would the workout look like? Is what the article mentions good (10 second hang, 2-3 min rest x 3-5) or are the usual hangboard routines for beginners good (10 second hang, 5 second rest)? For reference, I mostly boulder indoors and sport climb outdoors. Of those, I find the Beastmaker to be the most comfortable by far. I needed 2 full days of rest after a 90 minute hangboard session to feel fresh enough to train again. Also saw Eric Hörst has a video on daily exercises for finger health (including finger rolls, finger extensions and easy repeaters). I'm looking for routines/courses/training plans developed by athletes/coaches/pro climbers/etc. How long are your hangs? Are you able to complete them with strict form (half crimp)? Hanging at 80% for multiple sets for your first training cycle doesn't seem like a bad idea. You may have seen hangboards at the local climbing gym, but how I've only ever used the Trango Prodigy (B+ comfy), Tension Grindstone Pro (MK1 - B comfy), Lattice Testing Rung (A- comfy), Beastmaker 1/2k (A+ comfy), and Eva Lopez boards (not at all comfy). jkxa euvuig rejmc ifaasdb jlw bqvei rysw jwa pwxi wltpaa