Finger curls climbing reddit. See full list on trainingforclimbing.

Finger curls climbing reddit. The finger rolls/curls is the one exercise when i perform causes pain and tingling on the laterial elbow, using only 2 lbs. I’ve also been doing an abridged version as a super quick warm up on climbing days too, and it feels amazing honestly. You might already be past this stage. Especially with the extensors of the forearms. I'm a bit confused on the best way to preform finger rolls, some videos I have seen people just curling the fingers while others have been also curling the wrist as if doing a wrist curl. Depends on what you want out of them. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. This over grip will force you to use your finger flexors, which is ideal for climbing. For those who have trained finger rolls, I want to what you did/do and whether you saw benefit? I do not do the wrist curls when I do them. Dec 16, 2022 · Here the best exercises to strength the finger/wrist extensor muscles: Reverse Wrist Curls (with a dumbbell), Wide Pinches with Wrist Extension (detailed below), Pronator Isolation, and finger extension against a rubber band. You can also feel your tendons and finger joints being sore the day after at least in the beginning which also goes to suggest that the plate wrist curls does a lot to strengthen not just the muscles but joint structures and connective tissue all along the way from the top of the fingers all the way up into the wrist and forearms. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. Keep massaging any areas in your hand that have pain/tenderness, so that you can remind your body to repair it faster. I started hangboard rehab a few weeks ago doing 3 finger open hand and half crimps, just at body weight for now but going to hopefully add weight soon. Hope your recovery goes well. I recently got turned onto using the tindeq and further more into trying out maximal concentric finger curls with a block secured to the ground. 10 votes, 43 comments. and that will go much longer way to improving your climbing than hangboarding if you are a relative newbie to climbing. Hey r/climbing, I've started climbing a lot recently (3-4 times a week), mostly bouldering since I can't always find a belayer. 12 votes, 25 comments. Even prior to climbing I could not bend my proximal IP joints without bending the distal ones, basically, if i try to imitate a half-crimp holding my hand in the air with no load/resistance, my fingers just want to curl into a claw pointing towards my wrist. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. Even hammer curls/reverse curls are a much safer alternative and in my opinion better than wrist curls. Apr 27, 2025 · Finger curls are very similar to wrist curls but include a full extension of your fingers and then curling the weight back up. I’ve only been climbing stuff way below my grade mainly with jugs, but Early attempts to resolve: Wore a splint at night, taped when climbing, voodoo flossing, massage. Am old; started late (early 30s). He started strength training/ gymnastics quite early in his life and also finger curls just after a few years of consistent climbing training if I remember correctly. I have seen a few articles talking about the benefits of using a rice bucket and showing how to perform the exercises, but I am somewhat skeptical. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to others, especially if you've been doing one kind to maybe consider switching things up. pushups) as a good way to rehab Started climbing this last year, and I finally feel like I’m progressing a little. Deload until the finger stops being sore the day after climbing. When performing exercises such as finger curls or dead hangs, make sure to maintain a straight wrist and avoid over-gripping the holds. Continued into 2 weeks of v7/8 and I’m flying free. Eccentric wrist curls (for elbow rehab/care) mixing in with a routine of other wrist curls? I've been suffering from the notorious inner elbow pain, kicks off when I'm on the upper part of a pull up (angle less than 90 degrees) or trying to do a similar sort of lock off while climbing with anything around 90 degree or less. Justin Alarcon, a personal trainer at Touchstone Climbing & Fitness, illustrates fingers curls, a finger strengthening exercise for climbing Taping the fingers allowed me to climb pretty hard still, as the only time I got pain was when I found myself gripping anything open handed - three fingers. Your fingers can be ready for the training load of a climbing session, but not the training load of targeted pulling hard. A 2 week trip to font temporarily healed the injury (at the 3 month mark), probably because of open-handing, but it came back within a week of being back on my home rock. I’m starting to project V5/V6’s in the gym but with these slightly harder climbs with smaller holds I’ve noticed my fingers are often in pain. " Must for what? Literally any training for climbing is a "could be good/optimal" depending on the context. 10min rest. I’ve been trying a lot of crimpy/fingery type problems, but now I’m afraid to even try them. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Curl the bar up to your chest. Antagonist: I've seen most articles mention eccentric movements/rehab as the best way to handle climber's elbow, but have also seen a lot of mentions of antagonist training (ex. In fact, you Jumping rope for cardio circulation band wrist flicks, SUPER light hangboarding, and finger curls. Learn how to do this exercise, the muscles worked, and the main benefits. One thing that I've noticed is that when I wake up, my fingers are really inflexible; I can't bend them all the way in for at least ten minutes, although today it's been 40 minutes and I still can't bend them all the way. Rehab'd for climbing != rehab'd for training. Unfortunately, the opposite is true for those in the V5-V8 grade range. - Lowered volume of limit climbing tremendously, especially on crimpfests. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. It’s unreal. Standing is the way to go. Hi all. Next, climb with buddy tape on your ring and pinky finger. On the other hand wrist exercises (mainly reverse curls) have fixed some stability and pain issues. Slopers as you mentioned I'm still bottlenecked by finger strength. Literally nothing besides climbing is a "must. You only climb V7? You need to focus on learning how to climb not your finger strength. Concentric/eccentric pronation solved the problem in 3 weeks. Feb 28, 2020 · All of this to say, finger curls with the Tension Block and hangboarding + resistance bands are my go-to methods to work on my finger strength, and they have been soooo helpful to say the I'm mostly training before climbing, finger curls (control whole movement, don't fall into hyperextension), building from like 50% max to 80% max and then performing multiple half crimp one arm lifts starting from 50% and ending on around 80% max. Oct 7, 2024 · Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with these finger stretches and exercises to shake off the ache and climb your best! Jun 23, 2024 · By incorporating these exercises into your training routine, you can effectively improve your finger strength for bouldering and enhance your climbing performance. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Start with the bar by your thighs, elbows in extension. Between wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, finger curls, rotations, only one will be effective for treating your elbow. Nov 24, 2020 · I don't think they're a replacement for hangboard though, and they can still be tough on your fingers. . May 7, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Your climbing fitness, and most importantly, your technique will improve with just climbing on a regular basis. To effectively rehab the elbow, isolate the individual muscle and do exercises for that. I found that while hangboard strengthened my fingers, it also gave me the confidence to pull hard while climbing, knowing that I had done it in training already. Any guidance on what to do next? Many of these people are led astray by elbow rehab focussed primarily on wrist curls and pronations. In terms of their place in a general finger training routine, I think it makes the most sense to program them 1-3 times a year for 3-6 weeks May 7, 2024 · Reddit has, off and on, been interested in barbell finger curls, almost always was some disclaimer about it being "for hypertrophy but not direct transfer". Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. After 3ish months of taping and just climbing on it, and being careful what holds I used, I'd say I was probably to about 85% healed. Rarely in the bulk of climbing careers does just adding (work/recovery capacity) without subtracting (some of the same) in 2-3 sessions/week finger curls: 3-5 sets of full ROM finger curls using Tension 20mm edge to failure in the 2-4min range. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Maybe not as specific as fingerboarding, but potentially better at stimulating growth through full range of movement. I rest about 2-3 minutes and get on the hangboard (lattice or beastmaker), and if my fingers are feeling iffy or a little over-used, I tend toward a larger edge (about 25-30mm). From my reading I've decided to do reverse wrist curls, pinch training and heavy finger rolls. That is the other big reason to not hangboard before 1-2 years. Should i cut these out entirely or just push through the pain After reading through a large amount of articles and forums/anecdotal advice about treating climber's/golfer's Elbow, I'm still a bit confused about two primary things: Eccentrics vs. One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. Generally finger curls or rolls refers to holding a heavy dumbbell (round) in what looks like an open hand position (arm/hand hanging down) and slowly curling up to the wrist and slowly letting gravity resist your pull to return to the down position. From my experience, climbers climbing below the V5 level have a relatively small incidence of finger injuries. I think the sweet spot with climbing + minimal hangboard + finger rolls for me seems to be in the 4-8 range for sets of finger rolls. Mar 10, 2023 · Intermediate climbers have more finger injuries than beginners I consult with climbers with injured fingers all day (around 600 last year alone). I did about 5 weeks of 1 day on day off. Apr 9, 2018 · I tried some “heavier volume” type stuff with up to 10-15 total sets, but my climbing and grip strength started to suffer. I want go back to sport climbing this autumn and was thinking about incorporating endurance training into my routine. a dumbbell for finger curls, wrist curls, etc anything that keeps your fingers moving, Alex Barrows talked about doing juggling for AeroCap I would encourage you, as much as is possible given your injury, to work on things like core and shoulder exercises during your time away from climbing. What does everyone's finger warmup routine look like? Any experiences with finger curls vs forearm flexor/extensor curls? Curious if there are any benefits for finger curls opposed to dangle boarding and regular forearms curls. Here’s a video about how they are done. I primarily used a 15lbs weight. This shows you alone. Training your finger and grip strength for climbing not only helps with making technical climbs more approachable, but also helps minimize injury. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. Good thing is it's increased my crimp power immensely without needed to train any harder on the fingers. This dismissive comment is much more representative of its attitude towards edge curls. Ditch this no hang shit and just go climb. Here is my issue. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. Edit: One month update in the comments below. At the end of the day, the goal is to maximally recruit the finger flexors. Pleased to answer any questions. Anecdotal, but: I weight trained for years before climbing (lots of wrist curls as well because I had little baby wrists naturally). Datapoint: I don't do heavy finger rolls. I have almost exactly the same finger morphology as you! I bought a tension block and have done weighted off-the-grounds finger curls. Just saw an orthopedic surgeon for my finger injury and I’m totally screwed. com Jun 23, 2024 · Here are some effective techniques to enhance finger strength: Proper Finger Positioning Proper finger positioning is key to maximizing the effectiveness of finger strength exercises. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any Apr 14, 2021 · Coach Nate Drolet explains in-depth the reasoning behind many common finger strengthening methods seen in training for rock climbing, and the benefits of each. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the I then proceed to do dynamic finger curls (from a full open hand to a near full crimp, without the thumb) for a total of 5 sets of 10 reps per hand. Dealing with a nagging pulley injury and I just want to get back to climbing hard. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. Why does this happen? Mar 31, 2020 · With a two-handed grip in the pronated position, wrap your thumb OVER the bar (thumb will be next to your index finger) rather than under the bar. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. My finger strength is actually around it's best, but my endurance is all gone in just 2 months. Occasional light pangs, but overall doing pretty good. 3-4 weeks then a deload/reassessment week before I debrief on here and start up again. Training finger strength will not teach you how to be a better climber and you're wasting your time. I personally feel as though 6-12 reps of finger curls may be a potential method of increasing hypertrophy that accurately targets the finger flexors. Two months ago I injured my pulley and it’s been a very slow healing process. Mine were terrible for a long time, and wrist curls didn't really help. One, Two, Three. Apr 27, 2025 · Finger strength training is a foundational factor that sets the difference between novice and expert level climbers. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. So, are you doing finger curls like some people have said, or are you doing full arm movements like rows? So, are you doing finger curls like some people have said, or are you doing full arm movements like rows? How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. In fact because I'm so strong I have to be really careful on slopers Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with a Tension block (or other) starting in an open hand and moving the weight up into half crimp and pushing it towards the palm. Feb 28, 2020 · All of this to say, finger curls with the Tension Block and hangboarding + resistance bands are my go-to methods to work on my finger strength, and they have been soooo helpful to say the Nov 24, 2020 · I don't think they're a replacement for hangboard though, and they can still be tough on your fingers. I've had a sore, but not injured set of joints on my middle 2 fingers that don't feel bad when climbing, but when I stop they realllllly tighten up and get stiff soreness. Steven Low also talks about this in his elbow rehab guide and says that many climbers with medial elbow pain have injured their FDS and will do better to rehab with finger curls than wrist curls/eccentrics. Am not dead. I had a climbing session and the next morning I wasn’t stiff or in pain. Programming exercises is all about what they train your body to do. The warmup would also be a feedback mechanism from the body on how much it can bend/stretch so you would be less likely to go to that extreme when climbing. This has helped a lot in my climbing and reduced my tenosyvitis in those fingers immensely! Why I prefer the tension blocks for these is that I can measure how much stronger my lazy fingers are getting over time. I've gone as heavy as 200 lbs on this exercise and with an extended wrist would be murder on my wrist joint. And then during first not juggy climbs I try tobe mindful about what my fingers are doing. What is one non-climbing exercise that you were convinced would be good for climbing that turned out to be useless and vice versa (one non-climbing exercise that you were convinced was bad turned out to be useful or super useful)? A rep being a 1s finger curl at 80-85% of my tested one rep max. I found that finger rolls and progressive /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this exercises Finger curls: 1) training the fingers could lead to a finger injury because they are tiny weak joints, just think how easy it is to snap a finger! 2) we can hold more than we can finger curl 3) this makes it obvious fingers are not designed to close a lot of weight 4) finger flexors also run through the carpal tunnel near the median nerve. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. Occasionally I would swap this workout for weight-removed repeaters on the fingerboard with failure in a similar range 2-3 sessions/week ARC Generally 3 sets of 15min walking-ARC Aug 25, 2019 · Low to moderate volume Sub-maximal climbing for a few weeks full ROM exercises everyday for fingers (straight and closed), Stretch wrists if you have limited range of motion Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day Extensor strengthening, if it helps Massage, if Reddit's rock climbing training community. Barbell curl and reverse curl 21s with the wrist flexed (supine curl) or extended (reverse curl) during the entire movement. So I've decided to experiment with some forearm exercises in the hopes of hypertrophy. Example this vs this. Another warm up I do "finger curls", where I use a moderate sized hangboard or campus board edge starting with an open hand grip, and transition into a closed grip while sliding my palms up the board and maintaining slight tension on my fingers. This is so common on this subreddit lmao not everything is finger strength and max hangs. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. Does it actually help finger strength and prevent injury? I'm wondering if anyone has personal experience of using it and could tell me whether it is worth it or not. Any What I'm more curious about is lately I've had good feelings in the fingers just making sure I do sets of 20-30 slow finger curls every day. Close to my first V12 on rock. The risk to reward ratio is definitely not worth it. Also using fat gripz/larger bars on all exercises will have some care over to grip strength. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Eliminating the wrist curl forces pretty much all the weight onto the FDS and FDP which are the primary finger muscles for climbing. TLDR: Rest doesn’t do anything. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Read our finger curls guide. This exercise trains finger strength and grip strength too! The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. I've been struggling to properly warm up my fingers at the gym. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. My compression is still like 3 grades better than anything else if it's an exclusively compression route like a corner. I've experimented on and off with many finger extensor and stretching exercises and never noticed any improvement in strength or health. I'm wanting to add some hangboard/finger curls to my routine to get back into climbing shape for the next season, 6 months from now. This will give tremendous size gains and would be what I recommend. Your wrists aren't made for curling. So if you struggle with situations where you can hit a hold open hand, but need to roll up into a crimp, finger rolls are pretty clearly a good idea. I mostly just apply concepts from a history of training for powerlifting/dynamic sports (football, lacrosse, mma) to climbing and adjust as necessary. I do finger curls, though not based on anything from Tyler. I've plateaued at both extensor and flexor curl weights. Dedicated to increasing all our… The part about putting tape around your finger pulleys and wrists for these low reps doesn't inspire confidence in the safety of this rep scheme especially for novices. And while climbing does have a mental part involved, strength training for climbing is equally, if not more important. Move your fingers up and down and depending on your forearm size already, you should see a bit of muscle move there. Dedicated to increasing all our… 69 votes, 32 comments. At the 5 month mark I took 3 weeks off but actually that made it worse. 6-8 is a good range for building strength and giving the tendons and pulleys a good stress to strengthen over time. Specifically, my knuckles hurt when touched and my fingers were We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's a great hypertrophy and strength movement that is underutilized in grip routines. Sounds like you suddenly upped the intensity of your training, and your finger wasn't ready for it. First, stop all climbing until you can use basic non-drag 4-finger and 5-finger grip positions without pain. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I now go on for 2 more weeks moving into v5/6 doing the same things just harder climbing and my fingers are feeling unreal. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Apr 9, 2018 · Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. Thanks in advance! If you want to train this stuff off the wall, things like wrist/finger curls, scapular pull-ups, strict pushups, dumbbell rows, and extended core are all strength training that can help you build a bit of a base for better movement on rock. wttddia qjab cmwsa euoeok qager vbmsd lqqcc uruje uuce majlw