Climbing sling strength chart reddit. This takes probably 3-4 years.
- Climbing sling strength chart reddit. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. And yes I do remember being above the static anchor few times when setting up a top rope (I believe that's the most common case of climber being anchored with sling above the static anchor). I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. DAV study), wear and abrasion have been shown to be the useful predictor of strength and yours look downright pristine. I get it. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. 11- to 5. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. I'm curious what biners are commonly used. How are force factors measured? What is a kilonewton? How do force factors correlate to kilonewton ratings on carabiners/other gear? What situations would possibly over load gear? Add any other questions you Best Use Cases: Tubular webbing is often used in situations where flexibility and knot-tying capabilities are important, such as in rock climbing where knots need to be easily adjustable and retrievable. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Either dmm or wild country did extensive tests (n>>>>1) that showed sewn slings with properly smoothed holes actually resulted in failure of the aluminum before the sling. I replace my slings when they are fuzzy enough to make me worry about them. Now you’re completely on top of each other. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. re-slinging trad gear? Last night my friend (who is probably reading this) and I were discussing the safety of using accessory cord to re-sling hexcentrics. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. It's even annoying building anchors with them. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! I’ve been reading about how girth hitches weaken slings, and the documentation that comes with my slings specifically says that 2 girth hitches will reduce strength to 11KN. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. It’s apples and oranges. Strength-to-Weight Formula Finger Strength (lb) / Body Weight (lb). But, tying a knot in your standard dyneema sling is acceptable so long as you know the limitations and don't put yourself in a situation where you could potentially be putting a ton of force on the sling (which you should be doing regardless of using a dyneema or nylon, knotted or unknotted sling). I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. Unsure of how to choose carabiners in terms of weight bearing capabilities. It's also commonly used in sling configurations for climbing protection. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Girth hitch. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. Read pro's and con's and best uses (and see full explanations for each along with links to geek out even further). it's dangerous. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. ” I assume this is a typo and the first sentence should read Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. Note that I'm talking about slings (flat webbing): The knots usually used to join cords and ropes work differently when in flat material! 16 votes, 22 comments. Reddit's rock climbing training community. While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. Next one I'm considering is the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust that user archiacfrost linked to. 5 can vary from 0. Stick the sling round and clip both ends (aka basket hitch). Skinny dyneema is the way to go. Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. Strength is not an issue as they are all basically the same (22kn). They are perfect for trad climbing since they can be doubled up easily on smaller bolt anchors, make 4 piece trad anchors no problem, and are long enough to sling around boulders or trees. For example for slab climbing body strength usually matters very little. If you make an equalized three point anchor, very common in trad climbing, then your master point actually has three strands of cord. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. For example, I have some 6mm rope that is rated for 18 KN. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the Can we have an ELI5 on force factors and kilonewtons? I feel like it's a really important topic that is often not talked about because it's confusing and easy to unintentionally misinform. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. Knot Strength: Weakens the sling by 40- 60%, sling strength reduced down to 8. Even if I was at the park, having <8kN breaking strength on one leg of an anchor would bother me even though the force is being distributed across 4 when basketed. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Moving forward, I’d like continue some sort of finger flexor max strength training on my climbing days, whether that be a strength focussed hangboard protocol, or no hang pulls. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. 1. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. How’s that even possible? Aren’t these used for anchors and suppose to withstand such use? : r/climbing r/climbing • by Sailost2000 View community ranking Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon knots, making the second video more appropriate for this thread. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. This takes probably 3-4 years. 3 to 0. The home of Climbing on reddit. CF%Bw is an incredibly strong correlation with climbing grade (R 2 =. Hell, they’re significantly stronger than my weaker non heat treated I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. On the other hand, PE slings that were older than ten years, but used rarely, had lost a lot of strength. Generally with knots (this goes for ropes, slings and accesorry cord) every turn reduces the strength of the knot. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. 604) and the magnitude of improvement in CF%bw when going from 5. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. The metal is in good condition so I went ahead and replaced the slings with brand new accessory cord. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style Reddit's rock climbing training community. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. 6 million pounds. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. So I've developed a really strong 'strength' base, and starting to focus on building out my relative weaknesses better and getting re-focussed on performing on rope vs boulders. 8 kN. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. Then you can factor in the strength reduction that the knot introduces into your anchor. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). The pro will likely give out before the sling breaks in any of these configs, and the sliding X will shock load the remaining pieces. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. I looked at the BD Neutrinos but they seem a bit on the small side. We went all out. They’re made out of strong metals with plenty of tensile strength to hold the load, and the cams themselves are geometrically designed to lock harder against the walls the harder you pull on them. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. : r/climbing r/climbing • by Griff_Hamsley View community ranking “In spite of that, we found PE slings that were older than ten years, but had been used rarely and still exhibited very high strength. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Having said that, even a girth hitch only reduces the strength of the sling by ~50% so your sling will still be pretty strong. 60 votes, 14 comments. Saturday is power endurance. That is about 50% stronger than my 10mm dynamic rope. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. To your comment of "slings are rated to a force they can withstand" keep in mind that the usual and sometimes flawed assumption of adding knots to an X actually reduces the slings strength. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. I do Fig 8 equalization when using a sling/cordelette as the power point. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Based on data taken from some of the Lattice guys' research papers (Giles 2020 and 2019; links below), forearm Critical Force as a percentage of bodyweight (aka your 'all-day' rate) is a huge factor in sport climbing performance. Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. I feel pretty uncomfortable anchoring in to one via a single sling, or a PAS, and I'd like to have some redundancy going on. which is +37. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which Using any other knot to join slings (including the edk!!): Some people have been suggesting using an edk to join slings. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • I’ve been doing a lot more with accessory rope recently and it always blows my mind how strong it is. = STW (Strength-to-Weight ratio) What grade can they climb? As we previously found in past Grippul Challenges, Most climbers who are bouldering double digits between V10-V14 were able to pull 100%-130% of their body weight on the 15 degree crimp. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). My issue is that i like to use the sling as follow : girth hitch to my harness and 2 overhand knots at like 1/3 and 2/3. If you use two similar slings it's can be up to 80% strength. In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. Leg loops are now shoulder straps, we move the buckles around, cut out the gear loops and put them on some webbing, added the chest strap with some We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 13+ is pretty massive Hey all, I'm looking into a making a few alpine draws as I slowly get into trad climbing. What I would prefer seeing is how this test occurs with a dynamic rope in the system. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. Do not use any knot except waterknot or flemish bend for slings/flat webbing. Grip strength and technique, and some research on how to optimize your training routine to focus on climbing-specific strengths. Straightforward. Additionally, if you have at least a 2 point equalized anchor, your partner's fall would need to generate twice the breaking strength of sling for it to fail. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. That build up of finger strength has taken years over many hangboard cycles. Maybe that's to save weight? Tell me what you think! And if you want to mention the sling you use, feel free! I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. And yes we are scared of falling. Feb 11, 2016 · Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Learn how to choose the type you need. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. 12 votes, 48 comments. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. It also sounds like you need some rest days. Notice the chart showing factor one and two falls on their dynamic lanyards versus nylon and dyneema slings. g. 5 and 3 hours on working days. I don't recall the I think this has been a huge factor in my success in route climbing. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. I have a full set of hexes that are old enough that rope was used to create the slings. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. It's not really an issue in practice, and certainly doesn't need to be one. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Overhand+clip both ends. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. This one is a brand new Mammut nylon attached on a carabiner and this happened after it took some friction on a anchor. Apr 2, 2021 · We compiled data from 600+ rock climbers to find sport-specific strength and endurance standards that can help you know where to focus your training efforts. MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. This link is a table of their findings, based on the force of a tree acting as a lever in high winds Learn how to buy quickdraws. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. 7 pounds) with two arms. A huge uncertainty is how “accurately” the boulders in your area are graded and what type of boulders you are climbing. So I decided to start training properly. The steeper the angle of the turn, the higher the decrease of strength. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Uses: Sling a bollard or tree, Extending a cam loop, Simple and effective way to attach a sling to your harness. How much do you get out each year? How abrasive is the rock you climb on? Do you climb in direct sunlight a lot? All of these questions, and others, influence the answer to your question. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. For sewn slings that refers to the length of the sling, not the total length of the material. Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. But the hitch reduced the strength of the sling up to 50% and each overhand by 40% (from what i found on the www). So it's not ridiculous deadly. Is it safe to girth hitch two separate slings through your tie in loops, and then use biners to clip one to each open shuts as a means of Climbing spec is relatively weak already, and tying a water knot in the webbing to make a sling will reduce that by up to 50%. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. BD 18mm nylon Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. It might make more sense in the long run, and $ wise, to use one single length of static rope to tie all the trees into a master point. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? Hi! I was wondering what some of the classic strength benchmarks of our sport are? I am thinking: 1-5-9 (also what size edge are these usually completed on?) One arm 20 mm hang (lattice edge for instance) One arm chin-up Any others? 1. Where I climb, the top outs are generally two open-shuts. Relatively new to sport climbing, and I'm curious about something. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. Those strengths add together. Basically you want to avoid knots where possible, they have a big effect on the strength of the sling. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and… 240 cm is plenty long enough. 5kg (82. Keep in mind that the strength rating for these cords are for a single strand. sling or closed cordlette). 24 votes, 29 comments. Thin Dyneema slings in particular need to be treated with caution with respect to aging. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. If your other option is a water knot tied sling, that has 60% strength. I'm . trueI'd be ready to do all three if I were you. Yep, stitching isn't as strong but as a sling daisy is full strength anyway. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new You don't want big fat slings. I've been reading Science and Practice of Strength Training just to get a better base of understanding of the fundamentals of strength training. I bought bunch of slings awhile ago so I can have backup when I need one. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Easy to understand. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. I've noticed a curious suggestion for isometric exercise: The following guidelines govern isometric training protocol: Intensity—maximal effort Effort duration—5 to 6 s Rest intervals—approximately 1 min if only small muscle groups, such as calf A while back there was talk about the strength of common trees for climbing anchors. Drawbacks of Dyneema Climbing Slings If Dyneema is the same strength as nylon, but much lighter, smaller and more abrasion and water resistant, why would you ever get nylon slings? Before you throw out your nylon slings, consider the drawbacks of Dyneema: - Dynamic absorption - Durability - Cost - Melting point - Slickness Dynamic Absorption Between 2. For example, imagine a new climber cleaning some sport anchors with a pair of slings and lockers. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. While a few feet of climbing rope would in theory preserve the integrity of the system, I can envision scenarios in which there would be no rope. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. So we tested it. That tiny rope is 75% the strength of my heat treated aluminum carabiners that are double it’s width. They're just talking about the sling strength, right? Most carabiners are in the 20-30 kN range, so wouldn't the carabiner be the point of failure in most of those setups? I guess you could just double up the biners Nylon slings don't lose strength due to age the way Dyneema slings seem to (ref. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Read on for the best recommendations. 12 votes, 46 comments. sxgll bybh gpo vymdxuh onuo wvewuw xpok snozdzx fxcj qajf