Best quad anchor climbing reddit. If you're setting up a sport climb for top roping where the bolts and anchors are on the vertical face and you can visually inspect the anchor at any time, then it's fine to use non-locking carabiners. They make things super easy. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. I'm trying to reverse engineer it in my head, but nothing seems that practical compared to a fixed point anchor. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. If I know there are bolts for the anchor then I dedicate those biners for it. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. Even if it does One thing I learned from a local Joshua Tree legend is that top roping through aluminum makes your rope dirty with aluminum filings. ". Two quickdraws with non-locking biners is a very common anchor set-up for that kind of thing. Practice at home before you go. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). I also prefer two biners for the rope so that it has a larger A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. Mar 3, 2025 · The quadalette, aka the quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor. I don't find many multis with bolted anchors where I normally climb, but when I do, they are super quick. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Hey all, I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. I like to use the Edelrid biners with stainless inserts for top roping when I can. A nearby party was using a quad anchor and apparently, when Honnold saw the anchor, he pointed at it and said "that's a fucking circus. That makes it best suited for routes with modern, two-bolt belays and/or ice routes when using two screws at a stance. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. I love quad anchors. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. It’s great for when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. It's what makes your rope all black. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. The quad also works well on multi-piece gear Oh, and make sure this chain anchor is actually rated for climbing. There are bomber looking trees in the back of your Depends on the type of top rope anchor. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a Carabiner set-up at the anchor master point? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit Is this the actual first anchor you have ever made for a top rope scenario? Why start with trad pieces? For a lot of folks, learning how to build basic anchors off of installed anchor hardware comes first (eg quad, master point), as well as learning how to equalize two trees with a static line. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. A quad totally shines in this application, the multi pitch with bolted anchors. I use a quad all time for bolts and tree belays (girth hitched), but haven't really experimented with using it as a trad anchor. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. It kinda sounds like maybe it's intended for something else but you want to use it for a top rope anchor? Really depends on the scenario. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Oct 29, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail. bvl qlob xgrhy fvxrv dncn setldfp vjuk nrdcihl dvxrod zhkt